Faces of Wuxi Series, vol. 4 – Wu Haiyan
Wuxi resident Bradley Johnson here.
I love exploring and getting to know all kinds of wonderful people in this city.
Let me tell you about Wu Haiyan.
Meet my lovely friend, Wu Haiyan. [Photo provided to wuxi.gov.cn]
I'm not one to constantly crave western food, or really any kind of food in particular. Historical records of my existence in China prove I can be perfectly happy going a couple weeks or even a month or two eating exclusively at university cafeterias.
That being said, I am happy to indulge when a delicious western dining experience presents itself to me in a way that is both familiar and refreshing. When that experience is combined with a peaceful warmth and quiet kindness, chances are I will be back again and again.
During a recent chat with my friend, native Wuxi restaurateur Wu Haiyan (吴海燕), I struggled a bit to define the English term "comfort food" for her, as there is no satisfactory equivalent in Chinese. The literal translation of 安慰食品 (anwei shipin) gets the point across, but no one says that. The best I could do was tell her that each visit and each dish and each moment I've had at her restaurant simply makes me feel like I'm home.
I stumbled upon Purple Tomato (紫番茄), this new taste of home away from home, on a cold and dark winter evening this past January while getting off at my work bus stop. It's a bit hidden around a corner, but I caught enough of a glimpse to prompt investigation. The unique name, small garden out front, and sign with the characters for "Western Food" piqued my interest, and I determined I'd be back.
A couple of weeks later, on an even colder and darker evening, I walked in with a friend. Wu Haiyan was there on her own to greet us quietly and with a smile. We sat down in the cozy little dining area appropriately accented by just the right volume of purple flowers and decorations to confirm – but not overwhelm you with – the fact that you are indeed in a restaurant called the Purple Tomato.
The garden and signage that caught my eye. [Photo provided to wuxi.gov.cn]
We were warmed to the core by our cream of mushroom soup, lasagna, and spicy black pepper beef pasta, which she fixed right there on the other side of a small counter in what feels like my grandmother's kitchen. Lived-in, full, and busy, but serene, clean, and by no means cluttered.
Taking up a great part of the space in her kitchen, as I later learned, are the arrays of fresh and basic ingredients Wu Haiyan uses in creating her doughs, sauces, and flavorings from scratch. I try something new each time I go back to Purple Tomato, and the freshness and personalized touch to each of her seemingly simple dishes is ever-present.
Pizza is the most popular order at Purple Tomato, which Wu Haiyan attributes to the texture of the dough and baked crust, which she only serves if it's been sitting for just the right amount of time (1-2 days). If it hasn't been used in time for pizza, she gets creative and uses the dough to make treats for herself and family. Steak typically needs to be ordered a few days in advance to ensure proper marination in her customized sauce, which she developed over years of experimentation. "I have no idea how many steaks and sauces I've wasted over the years as I've figured out what works best," she told me.
I happened to show up one hot day in May when she had a small batch of steaks perfectly marinated and ready to go. Oh my. It hit the spot, as did the cool and refreshing salad on the side made with, of course, fresh in-season vegetables and her own dressing.
I am not good at taking pictures of food. This food is just plain good. [Photo provided to wuxi.gov.cn]
Wu Haiyan's journey to becoming a skilled chef and one-woman show at Purple Tomato is a tale of perseverance and passion. She started her career as a factory worker, later transitioning to sales, before venturing together with her husband, Jin Yongzhong (金永忠), into the culinary world.
The two of them opened their first western restaurant, Picasso, about a decade ago, looking for a change of pace and an opportunity to explore a developing passion. Along the way, they met a Michelin-starred German chef, who introduced her to the intricacies of western cooking and helped her in the process of opening Purple Tomato. She learned from him, for example, all about the delicate marination and slow-cooking processes required in producing the perfect steak. "I learned from him that a seemingly simple dish really isn't so simple after all," she said with a laugh.
"I started out as a total newbie," Wu Haiyan went on to share with me. "My greatest joy throughout all these years has been the learning process, which would not have been possible through the practice of reading recipes and experimenting on its own. That's certainly important, too, but you also need to ask questions and learn from those with experience. I've loved the whole process."
Even more special to me than her passion for developing her culinary skills is Wu Haiyan's love for another process; that of cultivating relationships with her customers. Or rather, as she says, her family. "Whether you are a foreigner, a local, or from out of town, when you come here, I always treat you like family," she says.
Enjoying pizza and a laugh with Wu Haiyan. [Photo provided to wuxi.gov.cn]
She isn't an overly social person, and she says it usually takes her a few repeat visits to develop relationships with people. She prefers to let people have their space and determine along the way how social they want to be. The point is, though, that people like me do come back. She claimed to me that she "warms up slowly to others", but I would say, instead, that the warmth is there from the start, and that she simply doesn't blast it in your face. Who doesn't prefer cozy heated floors to the hot dry air of an AC unit?
When prompted, Wu Haiyan shared numerous stories with me of her repeat customers: A Mr. Hong, who checks in based on what new cooking he's seen her share on her social media; an elderly couple who come to get a taste of the fine western food they've had over the years visiting their daughter in Singapore; and a young man who often orders takeout and, one day, came in and sat there for an inordinate amount of time savoring the aroma of a simple bowl of creamy spaghetti. "There's just something about the way you make it," he told her. "It just feels right."
Purple Tomato, indeed, just feels right. The comfort food factor is through the roof, for sure, but it is Wu Haiyan's genuine warmth and positivity that seals the deal. Purple Tomato might end up being the last place in China where you walk in and are not yelled at in passing to scan the QR code on the table to order. That's about as far from her approach as it gets.
As our conversation came to a close, I asked Wu Haiyan about her future plans, especially what she envisions for her retirement. With a serene smile, she responded, "Actually in my mind I already am retired. I don't have any other plans or ambitions. Imagining my 70s and 80s, if I can just keep doing what I love, I will be happy."
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[Photo provided to wuxi.gov.cn]
Look up Purple Tomato by searching for 紫番茄西餐厅, or using this address: 滨湖区经开区海悦花园12-102
Wuxi friends! Is there someone you think readers would like to see featured in the Faces of Wuxi series? Hit me up! facesofwuxi@outlook.com
