Handmade sesame candy by Zhang Wenbo. [Photo/IP Wuxi]
Hidden away in the quiet corners of Gangnan village, located within the Xishan district of Wuxi in Jiangsu province, there exists a humble sesame candy.
At first glance, it might not seem impressive or eye-catching, given its simple appearance. To those who have sampled it, the taste is reminiscent of childhood memories when the candy would lovingly 'hug' them with its familiar, comforting flavor, evoking feelings of warmth, belonging, and the simple joys of yesteryear.
In 1917, in the fertile, rice-rich lands along the Yangtze River, Wang Xiaolan cooked a traditional amber maltose using steamed rice and wheat-soaked tender shoots. This prepared maltose became the cornerstone of a new craft — manufacturing sesame candy — marking the beginning of a long-standing legacy.
Since 2005, Zhang Wenbo has dedicated himself to the traditional craft of making maltose. The process begins with the aromatic roasting of sesame seeds in a large, seasoned iron pot until they release a rich, nutty fragrance. Once the sesame seeds are roasted, pre-melted maltose syrup, which was prepared beforehand to achieve the ideal consistency, is poured into the pot. Zhang then employs deft motions, including stirring, kneading, and folding, to distribute the maltose throughout the sesame seeds. While making sesame candy may appear straightforward, it is a skilled craft that requires precise control of the maltose-to-sesame ratio.
When the sugar and sesame mixture reaches the perfect fusion point, characterized by a glossy, pliable consistency and a fragrant aroma filling the air, Zhang transfers the hot, fragrant sugar mass onto a clean chopping board in a swift motion. With practiced speed and precision, he places a wooden frame or mold over the mixture and then uses a spatula to spread and shape it. Next, he removes the frame and, with steady hands, quickly flattens the mixture using a rolling pin or his palms, ensuring it is evenly thick and maintains a neat, square shape.
The sliced sesame sugar is spread out on a flat surface to cool down. While it cools at room temperature, some impatient connoisseurs may choose to accelerate the process by placing it under an air conditioning unit.
As you bite into it, the sweet essence of rich maltose unfolds on the palate, offering a caramelized, honey-like flavor that is both comforting and indulgent. The treat delivers a luxurious taste sensation that doesn't cling to the teeth, leaving a clean, refreshed feeling after each bite.
Zhang displays his handcrafted homemade maltose and sesame candy at various intangible heritage markets scattered throughout Wuxi. Those with a sweet tooth are invited to seek out Zhang's delightful confections, which offer a delectable taste of childhood nostalgia and cultural heritage.
